Le Piane "Mimmo" Colline Novaresi 2020

A blend of 60% Nebbiolo, 30% Croatina and 10% Vespolina, Le Piane winemaker Christoph Kunzli calls this his “baby Boca” and it’s easy to understand why. If you’re looking for a Nebbiolo-based wine that doesn’t need years of cellaring before it’s ready to drink, the “Mimmo” is a particularly delicious option. Most impressive to me is the wine’s complexity, with notes of Earl Grey tea, dried orange rind, sage and cedar surrounding a dense core of blackberry and plums. There’s a lovely sense of umami, as well, with appealing notes of soy sauce, porcini mushrooms, and a silky textural component that Jonathan described as “guanciale fat.” It is a wine that’s screaming for cured meats and other rich food…my own family’s traditional Christmas meatballs come to mind. -Kate Masters