Martin and Anna Arndorfer 'Rosa Marie' 2022

Martin and Anna Arndorfer's Rosa Marie has been one of my all-time favorites in the 'darker rosé' category for four or five years now. It is Rotberger (fka Zweigelt) that is fermented on the skins of Grüner Veltliner, a truly original approach that was a practical solution geared towards 'using everything in the kitchen' including unused skins from other wines, but is so dang delicious that they now make two other wines — Anina Verde and Martha Rouge — using the same method. The Grüner skins add a lot of spicy lift and crunch to the wine, while it retains a lot of the black cherry and savory notes of a light red. It's vibrant and nervy with Alpine strawberry, fresh raspberry juice, rose petals, and a sprinkling of white pepper. Jonathan Kemp