Haarmeyer Nebbiolo Clarksburg 2023

Very light in the glass, with delicate floral notes. The textbook Nebbiolo description is 'tar and roses,' and this shows more roses than tar. While it's not as brooding or sappy as some Piedmont Nebbiolos, it more than makes up for this with an energetic transparent elegance. Its vivid profile highlights the chewy, mineral tannins in a way that I've never experienced from Italian versions. The texture is really impressive and satisfying. Mouth-coating and filigreed, it doesn't seem harsh or astringent. Meanwhile, the complex mix of heady fruits keeps you going back for more. There's Alpine strawberry and wild raspberry notes underpinned with a subtly smoky umami. I had no idea California Nebbiolo like this existed. Now it's all I'm craving. Jonathan Kemp