Engineer Boot - Natural Horsebutt - CN Wide Last

ATTENTION: We have updated our sizing advice for the latest batch of CN Wide Engineer Boots. For the best fit, we suggest choosing 0.5 size smaller than your Brannock size. See the sizing tab for more detailed information. Clinch is made by BRASS, one of the first high-end shoe repair shops to open in Japan, owned and operated by Minoru Matsuura. They quickly evolved from shoe repair; to re-lasting to their custom lasts; to building incredible footwear around their custom lasts. These lasts are where the magic is. Most modern lasts are optimized for mass-production. Wider, straighter, easier to pump through a production line, and easier to fit every single person into. Clinch's lasts start narrow, with a tight fit and a lot of contours to them, much like the lasts of the early 20th century. We chose their CN Wide Last, which is more suited to western feet than their standard last. The shape of the last dictates the careful construction of the boot. The insole is soaked, then molded to the bottom of the last. From there, the boot is build around that insole. Every step of the hand-sewn welting process is done by hand, except for sewing on the outsoles, a task best done by machine. The leather on these engineers is horsebutt from Europe, hand-selected by Minoru himself for the right qualities of density and grain. This part is exceedingly important, as there is tremendous variation in quality in the supply of horsebutt with less than 50% of the stock being suitable for Clinch boots. The natural horsebutt leather is undyed and in a 'raw state'. It is inconsistent and that is the charm of the leather. There can and will be variations in grain, texture, color (including darker and lighter panels) scars, bite marks (vampire or otherwise) and other imperfections. The rest of the materials are of equally high quality. Brass hardware, welts, and nails all come from Japan; the insole and midsole leathers come from the best tanneries in the world; and the outsoles are custom-made just for Clinch. The combination of carefully selected hides, truly hand-built construction, and unique lasts creates a boot that is as close to vintage as possible but with all the advantages of modern materials. ATTENTION: We have updated our sizing advice for the latest batch of CN Wide Engineer Boots. For the best fit, we suggest choosing 0.5 size smaller than your Brannock size. For a really deep dive into the brand, check out this detailed article on Stitchdown. European horsebutt, hand-selected Undyed natural leather that can and will contain various inconsistencies Hand-sewn welted construction Custom brass hardware from Japan Nails from Japan Welting from Japan O'Sullivan's reproduction soles 11" Height CN Wide last Resoleable and rebuildable New sizing recommendation Unstructured toebox Integrated pull straps Hand-made in a Tokyo basement If you have any questions about sizing, or are unsure of your size, please contact us before ordering. Built on the CN Wide LastThis batch of Horsebutt Engineers is fitting about 0.5 size smaller than previous batches. Narrow and low volume feet: 0.5 size smaller than Brannock for a snug fit D-Width and average volume feet: 0.5 size smaller than Brannock for a snug fit Same size as Brannock for a more relaxed fit (you may need to use insoles, thick socks, or both) E & EE-Width and high volume feet: True to Brannock size for a comfortable fit We suggest the Protalus T-75 or Protalus M-75 insoles and Darn Tough Full Cushion Socks.