Château Cabrières, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Question: Where are you going to find a flawlessly stored 1985 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from a respected name under $100? Answer: Only here. Today’s 37-year-old transcendental red is a vivid snapshot of über-savory, old-school Châteaneuf! Admittedly, I practice extreme caution when it comes to CdP these days because many have succumbed to the high-octane, overly ripe formula that fuels high scores. Those wines are not for me, and I also have a genuine concern about their ability to age. Château Cabrières doesn’t have that problem, as evidenced by today’s earthy, tertiary-flavored gem—for further proof, I’ve even tasted their sublime ’71. But the center of attention today is their 1985, and it’s everything one craves in an old, rustic, perfectly preserved French red, all for the going price of many current-release Châteauneufs. For those wondering where this small parcel came from: It was extracted from Cabrières’ cellar this summer and it has just arrived, temp-controlled the whole way, at