Domaine Borgeot, “Clos de la Carbonade” Bourgogne Blanc

If today’s sensational Bourgogne Blanc came with an opening line it would be the following: Chassagne drinkers, take serious note! This Chardonnay rarity, from a prized single vineyard solely owned by Domaine Borgeot, is one of the greatest diamond-in-the-rough white Burgundies you’ll encounter. For a wine geek like me, this wine serves many valuable purposes. Firstly, I can hold it up as undeniable proof that prominent values still exist in Burgundy. Secondly, I can “blind” sommelier friends and they’ll peg it as something much more expensive, maybe even a Chassagne or Puligny-Montrachet. And thirdly, it’s yet another shining example of Burgundy’s game of inches: The tiny “Clos de la Carbonade” vineyard lies in the village of Bouzeron, just three miles south of the world’s most brutally expensive Chardonnay plantings. So yes, this singular wine is a $34 phenomenon—which is why the Borgeot brothers give the name of the vineyard pride of place on the front label. It may not carry any el