Russell Joyce, “Small Lot Collection” Gamay Noir

Not only is Russell Joyce’s “Small Lot Collection” the cutting-edge of organic, micro-production California reds, it crushes and even embarrasses the overwhelming majority of Cru Beaujolais in the value department. For me, its charm and spellbinding aromatic purity is rivaled only by a few producers—with the legendary “Gang of Four” coming to mind: Foillard, Lapierre, Thévenet, Breton. Decades ago, this quartet of producers were elevated to elite status for their advocacy of natural farming and old-school winemaking. What's more, at a recent event in Pebble Beach with some of the world’s top blind tasters, the argument over today's exceptionally refreshing and traditionally crafted small-batch Gamay wasn’t California vs. Burgundy but rather which of the “Gang of Four” had crafted it.Who can blame them? Russell Joyce’s goal from the outset was to recreate these rarefied reds with natural farming, organic grapes, whole-cluster fermentation, neutral barrels, and zero manipulation. The lim