Domaine de Colette, Fleurie

Looking back over the last few years of SommSelect offers, I can’t think of another category of wine that has generated as much buzz—and delicious, affordable drinking—than Cru Beaujolais. It has evolved into one of the most dynamic, exciting wine regions in the world, a proving ground for young winemaking talents and a seedbed of sustainable farming and natural winemaking practices.And while I love newness as much as the next guy, I just as deeply appreciate the stalwarts who’ve been there all along, before the hype, doing it right. That’s Jacky Gauthier of Domaine de Colette. This Fleurie is a soulful, unimpeachable classic; drinking it is like listening to the original song behind the hip-hop sample—and liking that original better. Having enjoyed Domaine de Colette Fleurie for as long as I’ve been working in wine, I can’t remember it ever striking a false note—and all the while, its price has barely budged. What else can I say? This is essential drinking for all of us who appreciate