2017 Francesco Rinaldi, Barolo "Cannubi"

If this morning’s “baby” Barolo got you thinking about the real deal, we have just the thing–there are traditionalist estates in the now world-famous commune of Barolo, and then there is Francesco Rinaldi. If there were an award for upholding tradition, Rinaldi would win hands down. They’ve changed almost nothing in their 150 year history, though by standing still on a moving planet they have once again come into the limelight. With increasingly warm and dry summers, the staunch classicism of Rinaldi is producing supremely balanced, elegant wines. 2017 is exhibit A: The hotter, shorter growing season led to a wine that at just six years of age is already fascinating, captivating, and sensuously fun to drink. Of course it will age like a classic Barolo too, but the opportunity to get all the goods—sweet cherries, dusty earth, crushed roses, and much more—up front is very hard to pass up. For 150 years the iconic address of Francesco Rinaldi, in the heart of the eponymous village, has pr