Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life | William Finnegan

Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses -- off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.About the book**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography**Included in President Obama's 2016 Summer Reading List"Without a doubt, the finest surf book I've ever read . . . " --The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantm