2021 Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin "Mes Cinq Terroirs" 

Those that are tapped in will recognize the familiar dog whistle: high-hedging with a particularly labor-intensive whole cluster fermentation where each stem has its rachis (central stem) removed. It's what Leroy does, and certain producers have found success replicating the techniques. The thought is that the altered stems provide the lifted aromatics without changing the pH of the wine or providing any bitterness. Each rachi must be removed by hand, a very laborious and time intensive process that Mortet believes is worth it. In addition, oak usage has also been reduced in recent years, and now each cuvée has a finely tuned amount of new oak commensurate with the fruit concentration rather than a general formula based on vineyard status that the estate used to have.  Per William Kelley of Wine Advocate: "Arnaud Mortet's own label goes from strength to strength as his viticulture makes its impact felt on these recently acquired parcels. Soils are cultivated mechanically, canopies a